Hardwood Floor Installation
Independent Hardwood Floor offers Hardwood Floor Installation in Centennial and other cities.
Solid hardwood floor planks are made with a tongue and groove edge locking method which makes it easy to join the planks together. This material can be refinished several times throughout the duration of its life time. Available in many different species of wood. Solid tongue and groove is ¾ inch thick and comes in 2¼-inch, 3¼-inch, 4-inch, 5-inch, or 6-inch width. (most popular is 2¼ inches).
You can install a solid-wood floor in Centennial on a conventional raised plywood subfloor or on a properly prepared concrete slab (see Installing Hardwood Floors Over Concrete) but only if the surface is above grade (it must be no more than 3 inches lower than the ground level outside) because moisture, which is typically present beneath below-grade floors, can be very damaging to solid wood.
Things to think about
- Board Widths. Select from narrow strips (less than three inches), wider planks (more than three inches), parquet squares, and—a new option—squares and rectangles. The traditional choice, strips give the illusion of more space, while planks impart a rustic look. Parquet floors, with the distinctive geometric design, suit formal spaces.
- Wood Species. Hardwood species vary in durability, grain patterns, and color. Oak, maple, and cherry are among the most common species due to their hardness. Exotic woods like mahogany, and Brazilian cherry aren't as durable, but are prized for their striking appearance.
- Colors. Hardwoods run the gamut from blond to black, depending on species and finish.
- Grade. When a log is milled into Hardwood flooring at the factory the wood is picked for grade (appearance). The better or more uniform the appearance the higher the grade.
|Clear Grade: Is the very best hardwood flooring grade with the most uniform color, longer, lengths, virtually no blemishes or knots.
|Select & Better: Is the next best wood flooring grade very uniform color, longer lengths, virtually no blemishes or knots.
|#1 Common: Board starting to show the natural character such as lighter and darker boards, shorter board average, pinholes and knots are present.
|#2 Common or Rustic grade: Boards show a lot of natural Character such as light and dark boards, larger knots and checks allowed. Over all board lengths are shorter.
|Utility Grade or Shorts: Boards show a lot of natural character such as light and dark boards, lengths of boards are extremely short approx 16" average, knots and pinholes are quite evident.
- Hardness. For busy Centennial households with pets and kids, it's a good idea to choose the hardest wood species possible. Hard species, such as red oak, will withstand wear and tear, while softer species, such as pine, tend to show scratches. Keep in mind choosing solid hardwood means scratches from a puppy's claws or dings from a toddler's toy can be sanded out and refinished over and over. Whichever you choose, preventive care and proper maintenance can keep your floors looking good for years in your Centennial house.
- Finish. Along with protecting the surface, hardwood finishes imbue floors with color and luster.
Some Centennial homeowners prefer site-finished floors due to the wider selection of stain colors and the opportunity to hone the surface and even out imperfections after the boards are in place. Boards are also easier to repair if damaged. Urethanes are the most common type of finish.
Solid hardwood can be repeatedly refinished.